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El Centenario a while ago
4806 International Boulevard, Oakland, CA, 94601
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El Centenario 510-261-8696

From the San Francisco Chronicle: At 48th Avenue, this small divey place may feel a few long blocks too far from Fruitvale's bright lights, so a sunny lunch may be a good way to start. (And you'd have the added bonus of being able to check out the matching ostrich or eel boots and belts at Botas Durango next door, or the arts and crafts on display at Josefina Lopez's cultural center and shop in the same block.)

Ana Rosa Leon, who comes from Jalisco, opened La Cenaduria almost four years ago after running two restaurants in her hometown, Autlan, and then cooking at Fruitvale's El Taco Zamorano for eight years.

The menu is as long as the place is small, so check the specials on the white board and seek advice before ordering. If you talk to Leon, she'll steer you right to her whole grilled snapper (filete de pescado), served with either a powerful garlic sauce or El Diablo, a deep-flavored red chile sauce. Both are fantastic, and you can wash them down with a glass of Spanish Muga rose.

Pozole, birria, carnitas -- these are common dishes, but Leon's aren't cookie-cutter versions. The best example of her regional approach is her pollo mole pipian with nopales, a well-spiced stew of chicken in a thick green sauce rich with pumpkin seeds, chiles, garlic and cumin.

Like most places in the area, she makes her own thick tortillas daily with fresh masa from La Finca.

Everything comes with radishes. Why radishes? "I don't know -- it's traditional," Leon says.
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Oakland Taco Truck Crawl
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restaurants , carnitas , oakland , taco truck , birria , pozole , masa , pollo mole pipian , pipians




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