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There are two ways to approach Caribbean cuisine: one is to create new dishes from indigenous ingredients; the other is to do the classic dishes well. Cottons falls mainly into the former camp, but occasionally dips into the latter. A starter of whitebait featured little fish that were cleanly fried and perfectly crispy. A tangy papaya coulis gave a welcome zesty edge to king prawn and pineapple kebabs. Large portions meant we struggled to do justice to the mains: a superb traditional curried goat with rice and peas, and a less successful salmon fillet with spicy black beans, pickled red onions and sweet soy dressing, which we found a mite too sweet. Cocktails, on the other hand, were excellent. The wood-lined interior is comfortable; most of the tables are at the rear, providing plenty of scope for cosy evenings. If you're dining à deux, try to bag the lone window table, quite the nicest spot in the place, particularly in summer.

55 Chalk Farm Road
NW1 8AN Map
Camden
020 7485 8388
Venue's website

Category: Caribbean
Travel: Chalk Farm tube
Lunch served noon-4pm Sat. Dinner served 6pm-midnight Mon-Thur; 6pm-1am Fri, Sat. Meals served noon-midnight Sun
Main courses £10.25-£14.50. Set meal £18.50 2 courses, £21.50 3 courses
Credit cards: AmEx, MC, V. Caribbean

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Food of the world

Tags:

london , caribbean , to try