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All that nostalgic charm wouldn't matter if the grill fell short, but the burgers are uncommonly tasty. Liberally seasoned charbroiled patties are served on sturdy toasted buns and embellished with flawless accompaniments: thick, peppery bacon; smoky, piquant "special sauce"; savory sauteed mushrooms, and even generous slices of ham. Fries and onion rings are crispy, golden perfection and the hand-dipped shakes are divine (and their mammoth size definitely dictates sharing).

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